"DEATH OF A BOWLING BALL"

QUESTION: Does it pay to resurface a bowling ball? If so, how many times can a ball be resurfaced? And finally, when should a ball be considered “dead”? 
  ANSWERS: Yes, it does pay to have a ball resurfaced depending on how old the ball is and how many times it has been resurfaced. Your local pro shop operator will be qualified to advise you on this since they have to evaluate the age, wear and tear, etc., in order to make a resurfacing recommendation.
If you throw a reactive resin, the theory is that you can throw about 100 games before the ball starts to lose its hook. This is only a general rule of thumb, and may not be true for all balls, especially today. You should be able to make your own evaluation. If you have a ball that you have resurfaced a number of times, and feel you are releasing the ball correctly but getting no hook or anything close to its usual vigor I would suggest that the time for its burial might be near.

"WHERE'S THE HOOK?"

QUESTION: I feel I’m not getting the full hook potential of my ball. I can get moderate turn, but the ball I have should hook more than it is based on the hook others get with the same ball. Is there anything I should be doing with my fingers or thumb to induce more hook? I just need help in getting my ball to hook more strongly into the pocket? 

  ANSWERS: When two or more bowlers are using the same model ball, the hook can vary based on the difference in style and release between the two bowlers. When all things are equal, good balance, timing and strength will give a bowler the best release. Evaluate your game and you may find that your timing may not allow you to get the maximum leverage. Or you may discover that your trunk is leaning forward or to the side, adversely affecting your balance. These are just several errors you could be making.
To pinpoint the problem more precisely, I recommend you seek out some instruction. A good instructor will be able to locate your problem and improve your game.

"Timing Problems & Fast Feet"

QUESTION: I've beem having some problems with my timing, and have been working with my coach to correct them, but he says I have fast feet. I’ve tried holding the ball lower, but it doesn't work, and he wants to tear my game apart and rebuild my technique from scratch. After bowling like this for 20 years, I was hoping for another solution. Is there anything you can suggest? Gary Roberts Melbourne, Australia

 ANSWERS: Your coach is correct by saying that “fast feet” causes late timing. However, it should not take years to correct.
Start by holding your ball at the height you normally use, not lower. Put the weight of your body on your heels by putting your trunk very slightly backwards while still maintaining balance. Now walk in an exaggerated heel/toe manner during your practice, and do this until it becomes natural and a part of you. It’s so important that you might even practice this technique while walking.

Once this becomes part of you, you should be able to take a modified heel/toe approach when you go back to bowling. Make sure you keep your weight off your toes.

"TARGET PRACTICE"

QUESTION: What are some things that I can focus on if I have problems with consistently hitting the same spot and board? Henry Joiner, Portland, Texas

ANSWERS: In all my years of teaching, I have found that most people cannot hit their target because they are not lined up correctly with their target.

To test your stance, go to the bowling center and see if your line-up from the start (for a right hander, put your ball in your left hand), then swing your arm parallel to your body and see if your arm, feet and hips are lined up correctly in your stance. Most times, you will find you are not lined up accurately. If this is not the case, then the likelihood is the problem is in your approach going to the line. Now check your shoulders and hips to see if they remain in line with your target.

This will take some time and work, so be patient.

"PRACTICE"

The first tip is PRACTICE. Take an hour one day this week and head to the lanes. Your game will improve if you have a knowledgeable bowler to watch you throw a few frames and help you recognize the weaker points in your approach and delivery of the ball. If you throw a bad ball, they can see what you did wrong, and you can work on correcting the problem. When you are made aware of a dip in your shoulder, the angle of your hand upon release of the ball or a problem in the timing of your delivery, you will consciously try to 'not' make the same mistakes. Be aware of your motions, stop at the foul line and think about your finishing position. Did you follow through the shot? Are your shoulders square to the lane? Did your feet finish too close or too far from the foul line? Minor adjustments to your body position can mean the world of difference to your game. Try it out and see for yourself. Good Luck!

"Taking your time on spares"

Spares are the foundation of this sport. The old saying goes, "Strike for show, spare for dough." In today's high-powered era, however, spares are sometimes not given the attention they require. It's great to have eight or nine strikes in a game, but when the other frames are missed spares, that 250 game becomes 200-210 in a hurry. Here are some things to think about concerning spares.

First of all, take your time. Yes, it's frustrating leaving a corner pin on a good shot, or making a bad shot and having to shoot the spare, but just going up and throwing the spare shot without lining up is a good way to throw away pins. Take a deep breath, think about where you want to line up for the spare, and take your shot. That extra couple seconds between strike and spare shots can make the difference between making your spare and missing it.

Next, when leaving single pin spares, it's best to not hook the ball into the pin. The more boards you cover, the more of a chance the ball has to reacting erratically (especially with today's equipment). It is advisable to learn how to throw a straight ball at spares. Next time you're practicing and leave a spare to shoot at, try breaking the wrist back and relaxing your wrist at the point of release. This will create a minimum of rotation, allowing the ball to go straighter down the lane. Many players also invest in plastic bowling balls, since plastic balls generally go a lot straighter than reactive bowling balls.

Spares are the key to success in the long term. Make the most of your spare game, you'll be glad you did.

"Bowling Towel"

This week's tip will be more simple, but it is something that is very often overlooked. Most bowlers have their favorite bowling towel. They either leave it on a chair, the scorer, or the ball return while they bowl. They just throw it down and pick it up, and the thing is a mess. It's dirty all over from shot after shot of wiping the oil off the ball.

But think about it for a second: with all that oil on the towel and the bowler picking it up with no regard for that oil, some of the stuff on the towel will undoubtedly end up on the bowler's hand. It might be very subtle, but it can affect the way the ball is delivered just enough to make the shot less than perfect. My suggestion is to keep the towel folded. Fold it on half, then half again, then one more time. Use one side ONLY for the ball and one side ONLY for your hand. This keeps any oil off of your hand. Pick up the ball with your nonbowling hand and wipe it off using the towel in your right hand, but make sure the towel is right side up so you don't accidentally pick it up on the oil side.

One positive side effect: the towel will last 16 times longer without having to be cleaned. Once your "oil side" is all black and so dirty that you don't want to use it anymore, simply refold the towel giving the ball a new clean spot. Just make sure that the side from your hand is ALWAYS a clean spot. You get eight divisions on one side of the towel, then you can use the other side for 8 more. Follow this suggestion and not only will you see a pinch greater accuracy in your releases, but you will also help build yourself a positive mental routine, which is so important in any athletic activity.

"Getting the most out of your practice balls" 

Have you gotten sticker shock the last time you went to bowl a few lines of open play? When open bowling can cost $4 or more a game, getting to or staying at the top of your game can get expensive, so here are some suggestions:

Throw your spare shot first. By picking a corner and throwing that first and going for the pocket you're getting twice as much practice. Even the most dreaded corner pins will seem easy after you practice 30 of them in a row. An added bonus is that shooting 100 or below will finally break the habit of looking at your scores during practice.

Call around. Some centers have 99-cent summer specials. Some advertise or distribute coupons. Others offer prepaid plans. Some centers allow summer league bowlers all the open bowling they can handle. Take advantage of these offers.

Look to centers that feature early morning (usually Sunday) specials. The early bird might catch the worm, but you can bowl, and come home, and crawl back into bed knowing you did something right for your game.

"Lining Up"

Once you've found your strike line, don't line up for your perfect strike shot. You're not perfect, why line up like you are? Try moving one board left with your feet. Yes, I really mean it. Line up left of perfect. That way you'll have room to be a little light and maybe even miss slightly right. Either way you're probably still in the hole and if you don't carry, you'll most likely leave yourself a makeable spare.

"When to make an adjustment"

It's almost impossible to hit your target if you're not looking at it. Additionally, if you're not looking at it and you hit it, how will you know? Since you shouldn't make an adjustment unless you've thrown the ball pretty much like you wanted to and hit what you wanted to hit, you'll also not make a good adjustment. There may be something that will screw you up worse than adjusting off a bad shot, but I can't think what it might be.

"Pesky approaches"

Every bowling center's approaches are different. Different factors affect how each approach affects the bowler--outside climate, air conditioning, and age just to name a few. Some approaches will be tacky (sticky), and some will seem like ice. How can you keep a consistent feel from approach to approach? Here are some helpful tips.

Keep a wire brush in your bag. This will come in particularly handy if you happen to be unfortunate enough to step into something you shouldn't have--gum, water, ketchup, etc. Any foreign substance on the bottom of your shoe will severely effect your slide. Use the brush to scrape the bottom of your shoe from heel to toe. This will help take away some of the tackiness these substances will create. Before you go out and throw your next shot, walk up to the beginning of the approach, and test your slide foot. You'll be able to gauge how well it is working, and use the brush as appropriate. I do not endorse using powder on the soles of the bowling shoe, this will create a residue on the approach, and other bowlers who were sliding normally will then be slipping, making their bowling much tougher.

If you can, keep more than one pair of bowling shoes with you. In the old days, serious bowlers would carry three or four pairs of shoes with them, and use them depending on what the approaches were like. These days, however, many shoes come with detachable soles and heels, and can be adjusted to match the approaches much easier. However, I still feel that having a pair of shoes in reserve is a must if you are a serious tournament or league bowler, in case of emergencies. You can never be too prepared.

Probably the most important piece of equipment to your game is the bowling shoe. Without a solid foundation, all the other factors aren't really factors anymore, so pay attention to your shoes. Your game will thank you for it.

"When Under Pressure "
When under pressure, think of making a good shot, not a great one. Emphasizing perfect execution is not only asking too much of yourself in such a situation, it is not even necessary.

Need a Little More or Less? 
Spot closer to the foul line to achieve earlier ball roll; spot farther down the lane to delay the ball's hook.

Need More Ball Speed? 
Ball speed can be generated by modestly lengthening the swing arc or by putting the ball into the swing a tad earlier to create a more rapid approach tempo.

"Before League "
Whenever possible, shoot at the corner pins in practice before a league or tournament session to get a reading on how to play those shots.
"Spare Shooting "
To flatten out a shot when playing a spare, bend your wrist backward, ie., "break" your wrist and think of releasing the ball with the thumb and fingers coming out together. Otherwise, execute normally and maintain natural ball speed.
"Target Practice "
A swing that is loose and always close to the body while going back and forward is the best way to repeat strong quality shots. While practicing roll ten smooth shots at the ten pin. On the eleventh shot move back to your strike line and roll another just like you were shooting a ten pin. You will find that the ball comes off your hand smoothly right on target. It is a good exercise especially when learning to play an inside line. Give it some time and you will see a difference.

"Ball Maintenance "
With the proper ball maintenance your new reactive resin or particle ball can live a long life. In general it is a good idea to clean your ball after every session. After 10 to 20 games, the ball should be either re-polished or sanded to the way you are most comfortable with. After 40 to 60 games, it should be resurfaced. The reaction of the ball will stay more consistent this way. It can get a little expensive but it is cheaper than replacing it.

"Timing"

In the sport of bowling, there are few things as important as timing. Timing is also one of the most confusing parts of the game. Picture timing as being the synchronization of gears. There are various types of timing and the gears will operate with either, but imagine the inconsistency of a machine that has gears with poor synchronization. The most important issue when discussing timing is consistency. You will find that instructors tend to favor a specific timing based on their experiences. In my opinion there are two types of timing: approach timing and release timing. This can become a real problem if the instructor does not have the ability to separate approach timing and release timing. Once the two have been separated and understood, we need to bring them together so there is a feeling of leverage and freedom of motion.

I believe in separating them, so it is easier to understand the purpose and importance of each. I prefer to start at the foul line and work backwards. How a bowler gets to the foul line has proven to be as varied as the type of balls being used on the lane. Once the bowler gets to the foul line you start to see a lot of similarities among the elite bowlers. I believe that the release timing is the key factor while approach timing allows the bowler to get to that position easier and more fluidly. It is not my intention to try and change a bowler's timing but understanding each will help you make a decision.

Let's start with release timing. Release timing is basically the position of the ball in relation to the body leverage at the foul line. It all starts with body leverage. Imagine the body being in the perfect leverage position. When the body is in perfect leverage position, the force of the ball weight and motion will actually pull the body into the floor through the slide ankle. This will lock or secure the body and allow all the energy being applied through the swing motion to be transferred to the ball at release. Any variance of this body leverage is taking away from the energy transfer. If you do not understand body position at the foul line refer back to Tip entitled Preparing the Mind and Body to Bowl.

Imagine a machine of any type placed at the foul line. Attach to one side of this machine an arm that swings, make sure that there is a weight attached to this arm equal to that of a bowling ball. Now pull the arm back as far as you like and let it go. It is quite obvious what will happen. Now increase the weight of the object and increase the height of the swing, and just because, add a little extra push to get the ball started faster. You will find the balance of the machine to be directly related to the weight and the swing force. Now picture how far away from the base of the machine the arm is located and the direction the arm is swung. You can imagine that the further away from the base the arm is then the more unstable the machine will be. At the same time imagine the direction this arm is swinging. This direction has a tremendous effect on the base as well.

I hope this paints a good picture of what is going on at the foul line with your body. Your ankle is the base and you are applying the ball weight and swing force. Your machine will be as stable as your leverage and swing force permit. The greater the swing force, the greater the need for proper leverage. The closer the swing force is to the base (ankle) the greater the stability. When the stability is increased the greater the transfer of energy from the machine (body) to the ball.

Now since we understand body leverage, understand the purpose of an approach. Ask yourself why we have an approach in bowling? I promise you it has nothing to do with consistency and accuracy. The reason we have an approach is because the pins are 60 feet away. We use the approach to create the momentum we need to provide the optimal energy at the pins. I bring this up because it is not a constant. Lets use the extreme examples here to paint a picture. If we were bowling on dirt and the pins were 60 feet away imagine the type of force it would take to get a ball to skid-roll-hook. That would be humanly impossible. Now imagine bowling on an ice rink.
The pins are still 60 feet away try and get that ball to skid-roll-hook. These are the extremes and we do not see that wide a range in a bowling environment but I guarantee you that it can seem that extreme. If the surface friction was as low as it is in an ice rink we would not need an approach at all. As a matter of fact we would benefit by having less build up of momentum. And just the opposite on dirt or grass.

This is how and where most bowlers develop release styles and timing synchronizations. If the emphasis is on speed and revs a bowler develops a certain style, If the desire is less speed and revs we have another and if revs are not ideal you will see another style to match the speed. I prefer to look at things as not right or wrong but relative to what you are bowling on. If you are competing on a given condition it is quite often to adapt your game to fit those conditions with no concern about others. If you are going to compete on a wide variety of conditions I think a bowler should learn a more versatile timing synchronization that allows a higher degree of tolerance.

"Over the Holidays"

 Over the holidays, most people indulged. Did you come back to bowl this week and find that you couldn't get your thumb in the ball, despite the cold? It's not uncommon.

While many women deal with this as a hormonal thing, weather changes, bowling too much (or too close together), and diet (namely salt) can also wreak havoc on your thumb or finger size, preventing you from getting in the ball.

Here are a few quick suggestions to reduce the size of your thumb or fingers so they fit back in your grips. With any luck, you realize this ahead of practice so you can attack it on a few different levels.

Obviously, start with removing tape.

Use an ice pack, or fill a zipper bag full of ice and hold it. Don't put your hand in cold water, as it only water logs your fingers.

Elevate your hand above your heart to about face level.

Drink coffee or cranberry juice. If you drink coffee, do it with your opposite hand.

Avoid salt.

While you are bowling, if your thumb is still hanging up, you can try a few things too.

Roll up a dollar bill into your thumb hole and then force (gently, we're not talking cramming) your thumb into the hole. When you go to bowl, the extra space could be just enough. This also works with a thin bowling towel, but the dollar is easier.

Use EZ Slide. Don't cake it on your thumb, rather "paint" it on only where you are hanging up.

"Dealing with Oil on the lanes"

We've all heard the term "house conditions," and how easy they have become in the last decade. Usually a house condition has what is called a top hat--oil is laid down in the middle of the lane, with the outside (3rd arrow to the gutter) relatively dry. This allows players to throw the ball inside, where the oil is, out to the dry part of the lane, where it will hook back into the pocket. The term "adult bumper bowling" is fashioned after the bumpers sometimes placed in the gutters for children, so they will not throw the ball in the gutter. The adult version is invisible, but is just as effective in negating the effects of poorly thrown shots. But what happens when this adult "bumper" is taken away? Usually the result is low scoring, because bowlers attempt to throw the ball "into the dirt," only to find oil, so the ball never recovers, or hooks back, into the pocket. Even today's high-powered equipment can be rendered useless with the right lane condition, so how do you combat this challenge? With knowledge. Here are some basic tips when dealing with oil.

1. Soften your shot. Today's players, especially the power players, like to use maximum revolutions with lots of speed. On house conditions, this works very well, because when the ball hits the dry it creates a very steep entry angle into the pocket, which creates lively pin action. Even glancing shots turn into strikes. With oil on the outside, however, the ball cannot recover, especially with the extra speed, and therefore will either not hit the head pin, or hit the head pin thinly enough to leave a 2-10 split or a combination thereof. Having 30 revolutions will not help you on oil if you only give the ball half a second to react to the lane surface. So softening the speed is a must. You have to give your ball time to react, or flip over, to create any kind of entry angle at all.

2. Square up. This is probably one of the hardest things for a medium-to-high-end player to do, since the need to do so on house conditions so rarely call for it. Moving your feet and target right (or left for left handers) will take away the need to send the ball to the gutter, and therefore take away some ground the ball will have to cover in order to react to the lane and hit the pocket.

These are by no means the only ways to deal with oily conditions, but this will give you a start. It's fine to know how to play the game one way, but having more than one trick in your bag (other than just trying to pull out another ball) will give you an edge.

"Using Insert Tape"

The use of insert tape for the thumb hole is very important. Having a good grip on the ball is a necessity to a relaxed swing. Using white textured tape on the gripping side of the hole seems to work best. It gives you something to hold onto without really having to grip tightly. A recommended fit would have your thumb exit the ball smoothly without hanging up or slipping off. This will also allow for a smooth and loose arm swing which helps greatly in repeating shots. If the ball feels like it is slipping, add a piece of tape. If you feel that it is a little snug, remove a piece. This is much easier than altering your grip.

"Never Give Up"

We've all struggled at the lanes before, it will happen to everyone. Whether you're a seasoned veteran or a first-year sanctioned bowler, sooner or later Fortune will stop smiling on you for a little while. It's easy to get frustrated when things just aren't going your way, but it is important to remember to never give up.

First of all, the very nature of scoring in this sport makes big turnarounds in short time spans very much possible. It's important to not give up--you never know what is going to happen to yourself or your opponent. This also goes when you are on the winning side of things. Scores can change very quickly, so it is important to not let up when you find yourself ahead, you need to keep putting 100% into each and every shot.

More importantly, it is crucial to put your best into every shot to get into the proper mindset when competing in tournaments and such. You've heard the term, "You play like you practice," and it is true. If you like to give up and stop caring when you start to lose, you won't have a basis of emotions to call upon when the time comes to get up on the approach. The best players can rebound after a bad game, because they never give up.

So next time you find yourself not doing well, don't just throw shots away, turn it into a mental drill for yourself, so when the time comes to bear down, you'll have the mental toughness to do so effectively.

"Shopping for the Holiday's"

I'm writing this the day before Thanksgiving, and I usually make fun of stores that have Christmas stuff out weeks before Thanksgiving. However, I guess I'll jump on the bandwagon and talk about shopping for Christmas before Thanksgiving.

If there is a bowler on your gift list, there are a lot of options to consider. Bowling balls are being released faster than the Montreal Expos lineup, so instead of getting a ball that will be obsolete by the holidays, I would suggest getting a gift certificate if you are planning to buy someone a bowling ball. That way they can go into the pro shop and decide for themselves.

Accessories are really really good ideas for stocking stuffers. Things like rosin bags, booties for shoes, new skin, bowling towels, bowling tape, all of these things are always needed by the everyday bowler. If your recipient doesn't need anything new, most bowling centers offer certificates for open bowling now. We could all use more practice :).

Friday will be a monster shopping day, spending part of it in the bowling center pro shop will save you on some big crowds--at least for a while.

Have a safe and happy Thanksgiving Day.

"Trash Talkers"

"Keep Words in Perspective."

During leagues and tournaments, bowlers are pitted against one another. The objective is to win, of course. However, different people will take different avenues to try to achieve the same goal. Most of us have heard the term "trash talk," goading an opposing team member or bowler with snide remarks and offerings to "psyche out" their opponent. Realizing that trash talk is exactly that, trash, can help you overcome it.

I've seen many bowlers, after getting angered by an opposing bowler with statements like, "Must be nice to carry everything.," or, "You must need to stink to be good here," start making terrible shots. They get too much into the verbal battle, instead of focusing on the pins. This is exactly what the trash talker wants, he or she wants to get you out of your normal rhythm so that you start thinking about what you're doing instead of just doing it. The more conscious thought you put into your shot instead of just flowing with it, the greater chance you're going to have to make an errant shot.

First thing to remember when faced with someone like this is to remember that what they really want is to get you out of your normal game. It doesn't matter what an opponent thinks of you or how you bowl, your only opponent, if you really want to get right down to it, is the ten pins and the lane you are bowling on. The actions of your human opponent should be totally outside of your attention. When you let comments like that get to you, you end up with 3 opponents, the pins, the opponent's remarks, and yourself.

Just keep a cool head, and realize what the trash talker really wants, then don't give it to him.

"Using Insert Tape "
The use of insert tape for the thumb hole is very important. Having a good grip on the ball is a necessity to a relaxed swing. Using white textured tape on the gripping side of the hole seems to work best. It gives you something to hold onto without really having to grip tightly. A recommended fit would have your thumb exit the ball smoothly without hanging up or slipping off. This will also allow for a smooth and loose arm swing which helps greatly in repeating shots. If the ball feels like it is slipping, add a piece of tape. If you feel that it is a little snug, remove a piece. This is much easier than altering your grip.

"Getting The Right Hook "
When getting an over/under reaction. That is too much hook when missing a little right, and not enough hook when missing left. Try using a green scotch bright pad on your ball just enough to remove the shine. This will mellow the reaction and give you a more consistent reaction.

"How to stay sharp without picking up a ball"

As much as many of us would like to, we just don't have the time or money to practice 20+ games a week. So how can we stay sharp and help fix problems without actually picking up a ball? Mental imaging. This is where that great imagination you developed as a kid comes in handy. Having problems with the ten pin? Imagine yourself shooting the ten pin and making the spare. Now do it again. And again. And again. Over and over. If you take a little time here and there, before you go to sleep, in the car pool in the morning, on the train or bus to work (don't miss your stop), you can actually help to train your muscle memory to execute shots better. Ever notice how you bowl better after watching the Pros on TV? This is part of the same theory. If you watch something positive repeatedly enough times, it actually becomes part of you. A pleasant side effect: making all those ten pins in your mind helps the confidence a great deal, especially with so many people having more negative thoughts than positive ones.

"See the shot"

Have you ever thrown what you thought was a pretty good shot--you hit your mark, kept your balance, released the ball cleanly--and still didn't come close to the pocket. Many bowlers' first reaction is, "Wow, the lanes are drying up already?" In some cases, that might be true, but if the lanes have been pretty consistent until then, it is doubtful, though not impossible, that the lane conditions have dried up that much since the previous frame.

A bowler has to remember that there is more that goes into accuracy besides hitting a target. There are many ways to simply hit a target. You can hit it going straight, left to right, right to left, with variations of angle within those. Therefore, it is important to pay attention to a few other points on the lane. In order to make a path for a ball to travel, you need to have at least two points of reference: a starting point and a finishing point. Generally, bowlers pick from a combination of these four parts of the lane: the foul line, the dots, the arrows, and the break point.

The foul line is pretty self-explanatory. It is the place where the ball is at release, and is the starting point for the ball's path on the lane (even though the ball lands a foot or two out on the lane). But how can you tell where the ball is at the foul line while you're looking out on the lane? For most bowlers in the world, the bottom of the bowling ball will be seven boards over from the inside part of the sliding shoe. Those with a thinner frame may have it come out to six boards, while those with larger frames may have it come out to eight boards. If you see where you slide when you release the ball, you know where the ball was at that moment.

The arrows are, well, the arrows. There are seven of them, positioned on boards 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, and 35. It is important to remember that a bowler is allowed to target between arrows. This sounds pretty obvious, but you'd be surprised at the number of bowlers who will only look at the first arrow, second arrow, or third arrow and not even consider that they can look in-between arrows. However, looking at a specific arrow is still a good place to start.

The dots are exactly halfway between the foul line and the arrows. The arrows are fifteen feet past the foul line, so the dots are seven and a half feet from either. There are two sets of five dots, one set on the right side of the lane and one on the left. Starting from either side, the dots are located on boards 3, 5, 8, 11, and 14. Note that the only dot that lines up with an arrow is the second dot with the first arrow. On the other side of the lane, the dots are located on boards 26, 29, 32, 35, and 37. Remember that the dots are halfway between the arrows and the foul line. Therefore, if you want the ball to travel a path that starts out at board 17 and hit board 11 at the arrows, all you have to do is figure out what board is halfway between 17 and 11. Taking the average of those two numbers, we find that one should aim at board 14, which is the fifth dot. Bowlers find it useful to look at the dots in many instances. If there is a lot of oil on the lane, looking closer to the foul line sometimes help the ball roll sooner. Some bowlers don't like looking out all the way to the arrows, as it makes them dizzy, or just simply uncomfortable. Also remember that the closer something is, the easier it is to hit.

The last point, and probably the toughest challenge, is the breakpoint. What makes the breakpoint interesting is that it's always different depending on the lane conditions. The breakpoint is the spot where the ball changes direction and starts to hook into the pocket. More/longer oil translates into a breakpoint further down the lane. Less/shorter oil translates into a closer breakpoint. However that is not the end of it by any means. Remember that lanes change. As the oil carries down, so too does the breakpoint. If a lane is oiled 30 feet and buffed to 35 feet, one can expect the breakpoint to be somewhere in the range just past there. The ball will not start to hook as soon as it hits dry. Because of its forward motion down the lane, the breakpoint will be just past the oil/dry line. Also, those bowlers with higher ball speeds and less aggressive equipment will see a breakpoint further down the lane because their styles are not as lane-condition sensitive. The new Brunswick Anvilane synthetic lanes have 4 markers way down the lane that bowlers can use as either a target to see what they want to hit, or as a reference point to see what they did hit. Those markers coincide with the second and third arrows on each side. People use breakpoint reference for a few reasons. When the heads are drier, looking further down the lane helps the ball clear the heads a bit better. Sometimes the backends are a pit spotty. Looking at a breakpoint can help a bowler be accurate in the backend, where accuracy matters in those cases. Bowlers often look 40 feet or more down the lane in order to make sure they stay out of a certain area--possibly an out-of-bounds area or an extreme dry patch. There are other reasons of course. Bowlers are very improvisational and come up with new ideas by the game.

Now that you have these points in your mind, draw an imaginary line that goes through the ones that you have decided to focus on. Remember that it will be a STRAIGHT line (Note: a line can be angled, but it will still be straight. "Straight" does NOT mean perpendicular to the foul line). The line does not hook or curve until the breakpoint, which would be the end of the line anyway. When you deliver the ball, try to keep the ball on this line. It will help if you try to get your bowling shoulder above this line when you release the ball. By paying attention to more than one point on the lane, you can become more adept in recognizing the difference between good shots and bad shots, hopefully preventing you from making unnecessary adjustments.

"Top Ten Bowling Tips"

#1 Concentration
I have concentration listed first because without it, all of the others will not happen. Distractions, problems at home, school, or work, discomfort (such as tight clothing), and many other things contribute to you losing concentration at that last second. One thing I do is wear a watch and count to 4. It's not necessarily the extra time that helps, but this gives you a familiar object to concentrate on, and it also improves your "timing". Watch the second hand count 4 ticks, then move your eyes to your mark as you begin your approach. This will work providing you don't have to alter the position of your watch arm too much.

#2 Shoulders Square
For consistent deliveries, keep your shoulders square to the foul line at all times. A "dropped" shoulder can send the ball wide every time. This often happens when you rush your approach. Maintain a moderate approach speed and be aware of your shoulders during delivery.

#3 Back Straight
This is one of the most difficult things to learn how to do automatically, it seems instinctive to bend over when you set down a 16 pound object, but it is very important to keep your back reasonably straight for a consistent delivery.

#4 Arm Straight And Near Body
Bending your arm at the elbow and swinging it away from your body are main contributors to an inconsistent game. A slight bend at the elbow to obtain lift is alright, as long as the inside of your elbow is pointing down your lane, and not at the snack bar.

#5 Knee Bent
It might seem natural to begin your slide with a bent knee, then straighten it as you release the ball. Although this will get you more lift, it's just one more thing you have to get perfect for consistent bowling. Stay down at the foul line for higher scores.

#6 Slide Straight
You absolutely must maintain your balance for proper ball delivery. In order for this to happen, you have to keep your approach and slide perpendicular to the foul line at all times.

#7 Follow Through!
I had these two words engraved on one of my bowling balls as a constant reminder. This is probably the single largest contributor to consecutive poor releases. It's not hard to bowl an entire game before you realize that you are not following through. Freeze your arm after release and check it's position after your ball crosses over the mark, it should be about head high with your thumb pointing over it's own shoulder.

#8 Watch Your Ball Cross The Mark
It doesn't matter whether you focus on a mark, or on an area of the lane, as long as you focus on something. "Hold that pose" until your ball crosses over that mark, this will ensure that you are not rushing out of your approach.

#9 Practice, Practice, Practice
And when you've finished doing this... practice some more.
It's hard to be consistently good at anything, if you only do it once a week. Get a friend to watch your approach, or if possible, set up a video camera. You'll be surprised at what you see!

#10 Have Fun!
I put this in here just in case the other nine do not work. You don't have to average 200 to have a great time!

"Common Mistakes"

Mistake Number One: Never let the facts get in the way of a bad decision.

“But I always play second arrow in this house!” But it’s not working tonight, is it? We often need to make a choice between playing the odds and creating new odds. There is almost always a risk versus reward situation going on when bowling on a given pair of lanes.

Trying not only a different line but maybe even a ball you normally wouldn’t even think of using might result in you saying, “Why in the world didn’t I try that before?” You may be missing out on a better scoring opportunity.

“You can’t steal second base if you always have one foot on first.”

Mistake Number Two: The number of rational hypotheses that can explain any given phenomenon is infinite.

It is very easy to over-think a problem. If you find yourself standing at the foul line with your hands on your hips and a disgusted look on your face, you may indeed be thinking too much.

When you are lost on the lanes, examine the last few moves you made and/or the ball choices you’ve tried and select the one that was the closest to getting you into the pocket … and try it again with a clear head and an open mind. Relax, execute a good shot and carefully analyze the results. General George Patton had a suggestion for times like this: “A good plan today is better than a perfect plan tomorrow.”

Also, be willing to accept the results you get. Not every night is going to be “your night”. Thirty or forty under is always better than 100 under.

Mistake Number Three: Man will occasionally stumble over the truth, but you can still pick yourself back up and continue on.

When you are bowling badly, you must be willing to accept the fact that you may be part of the problem. The best bowling ball in the world or the easiest pair of lanes in the house aren’t much help if you are not executing a good shot. The fish may be biting, but you have got to set the hook!

You can repeatedly miss the pocket or blow a 10-pin spare if your plan of attack is flawed or your mechanics are screwed up. Be honest with yourself and make a good assessment of how you are bowling.

What am I doing wrong? Is my hand position correct? Are my knees bent? Am I staying focused on my targets? Is my armswing staying in plane? Is it my pushaway that is messing up my timing? Whatever. Looking too far outside when we should be looking inside can easily result in very poor performance on the lanes.

"Trouble Carrying the Corner Pins??"

Are you having trouble carrying the corner pins? First, you have to see where the 6 pin (4 pin for you lefties) goes. Did it just lie in the gutter next to the 10 (7) pin? Your ball is running out of energy at the pocket, you might want to move half a board right (or left for the lefties) to get a little more punch on the pocket. Did it wrap around the corner pin? The ball is coming in behind the head pin, you might want to try moving back on the approach about 1 inch to get better angle in the pocket. Minute adjusting is essential to maintaining good carry.

"Taking your time on spares"

Spares are the foundation of this sport. The old saying goes, "Strike for show, spare for dough." In today's high-powered era, however, spares are sometimes not given the attention they require. It's great to have eight or nine strikes in a game, but when the other frames are missed spares, that 250 game becomes 200-210 in a hurry. Here are some things to think about concerning spares.

First of all, take your time. Yes, it's frustrating leaving a corner pin on a good shot, or making a bad shot and having to shoot the spare, but just going up and throwing the spare shot without lining up is a good way to throw away pins. Take a deep breath, think about where you want to line up for the spare, and take your shot. That extra couple seconds between strike and spare shots can make the difference between making your spare and missing it.

Next, when leaving single pin spares, it's best to not hook the ball into the pin. The more boards you cover, the more of a chance the ball has to reacting erratically (especially with today's equipment). It is advisable to learn how to throw a straight ball at spares. Next time you're practicing and leave a spare to shoot at, try breaking the wrist back and relaxing your wrist at the point of release. This will create a minimum of rotation, allowing the ball to go straighter down the lane. Many players also invest in plastic bowling balls, since plastic balls generally go a lot straighter than reactive bowling balls.

Spares are the key to success in the long term. Make the most of your spare game, you'll be glad you did.

"Approach - Adjusting to Lanes Conditions"

A bowler needs to move their starting position on the approach the same direction that the ball is missing the intended target.

You will need to understand that a bowling center applies lane conditioner to the surface of the lanes to protect the lanes. This substance is oil-based. As you know oil is slippery. The amount of conditioner on the lanes will determine when a ball will begin to curve.

When you have oil on the lanes, the ball will skid and slide further down the lanes before it curves. If there is very little oil on the lanes it will cause the ball to curve sooner. With the ball curving sooner, on the lane, the ball will have more of the lane to travel further to the left before it hits the pins where it will end up in the 4 pin area.

If you understand this concept and pay attention to what your ball is doing then you will be able to adjust to the lane conditions. 

"Finger Position.. what's the best?"

What is the difference between placing your fingers in the ball and spreading out the pointer finger and baby finger and keeping all fingers together.?

Keeping the fingers tight to the other fingers will promote forward roll on the ball making it go a bit longer or, in other words, delaying the break point slightly. If you have a ball position in the stance where the thumb points at 2 or 3 o'clock (right handed) you may want to spread the index finger to take some of the weight off of the wrist. Tucking the pinky will tend to shift the ball to the outside of the body in the stance with can effect the armswing slightly as well as the hand in the release position.

"Making the Ball Hook or Curve"

In order to get the ball to hook, you must first understand that spinning the ball will not get the job done. When a bowler tries to hook the ball by spinning it, the ball will end up spinning like the earth on the south pole.

To hook the ball, your bowling hand (fingers and thumb) needs to be in the same position as if you were holding a cup of water. Keeping the your hand behind the ball with the hand in this position will put the proper rotation on the ball to allow it to hook. Turning your hand around and over top of the ball (or spinning it) will not create the proper action to hook the ball.

"Adjust hand position - increase your versatility as a player"

Releasing the thumb first and then fingers is the proper way to deliver a bowling ball and is necessary to generate the forces that will help the ball to hook. More important is the position of the hand at the point of release.

To generate maximum hook potential the hand (for a right handed player) would release the ball with the thumb pointing at 9 o'clock and the fingers at 3 o'clock. To give you better perspective, lets discuss how you would deliver a straight ball. A straight ball would be delivered with the hand positioned having the thumb pointing at 12 o'clock (towards the pins) and the fingers at 6 o'clock (furthest point away from the pins).

In this 9/3 hand position your hand is almost completely to the right side of the ball and in the 12/6, the hand would be completely behind the ball. To reduce the hook potential of the ball you would need to start moving your hand more behind the ball with the hand in a 10-11 (thumb) to 4-5 (fingers) to reduce the hook potential of the ball. Somewhere in between the straight ball and maximum hook (potential) release should give you the desired reaction.

If you can learn to adjust your hand position - this will make you a more versatile player.